Mix the flour, water and yeast in a large bowl until no dry flour remains. Cover and rest 20 minutes. Add the salt, folding and squeezing the dough until distributed.

Cover and let rise at a moderate room temperature for about 90 minutes. After 30 and 60 minutes, lift each side of the dough and fold it toward the center with damp hands. By the end it should be noticeably puffy; allow more time in a cool kitchen.

Divide into two equal pieces on a lightly floured bench. Shape gently into short logs, cover and rest 20 minutes. Flatten each slightly, fold the long edge toward the center and seal, then repeat from the opposite edge. Fold lengthwise, seal the seam and roll gently to 14–15 inches, fitting your baking sheet.

Place seam-side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, separated by at least 3 inches. Cover loosely and proof about 30 minutes, until puffy and an indentation springs back slowly. Meanwhile heat the oven to 475°F (245°C). Check that the parchment and covering pan are rated for this temperature.

Make three or four shallow overlapping diagonal slashes down each loaf using a sharp blade angled toward the dough. Cover with an inverted deep roasting pan or foil pan without touching the dough. Bake 15 minutes, uncover carefully away from your face and bake 8–12 minutes more until deeply golden. Do not use a glass cover.

Transfer to a rack and cool at least 30 minutes before slicing. Baking and proofing times vary with the oven and room temperature.